Friday, October 1, 2010

Stairway to Heaven?


The theme of this post is stairs. There were about about 100 steps taking one from Bled Lake to the Golf Hotel. Done once, it was not too bad but over the course of Thursday, I did more climbing than this old body was used to.

Ruth and I set out after a buffet breakfast in which I had the tastiest hot grain (perhaps buckwheat groats) cereal imaginable with prunes and apricots cooked in milk. I didn't stop there as prosciutto and smoked salmon also begged to be tasted. I'd forgotten how much I loved of café au lait with the milk as steaming hot as the coffee so enjoyed this treat as well. So, the first time walking down those stairs, I waddled.

Our plans were to stroll around the lake. Some people said it could be done in under an hour but I knew I'd be stopping for photos so banked on it taking longer. It didn't seem like two hours passed as Ruth and I had a great time chatting about our families and our lives living with a man who worked in medical science.

The island (there is only one island in the country of Slovenja) in the middle of Bled lake has the Church of Mary the Queen perched regally upon it. This picturesque chapel rang its bell every five minutes, it seemed. Since the town church sounded every quarter hour, I wondered if Mary the Queen divided the hour even further.

Fifty-four photos later we rounded the lake and came back to the outskirts of Bled. As we crossed the river flowing from the lake, we both realized that the coffee and diuretic (me) had hit so we upped our pace. We were undaunted by the steep stairs to the hotel and fairly flew up them.

Since I was a registrant at the meeting, my meals could be had with the others so I joined Glen for lunch. The antipasta (Italy is a not far away) and asparagus soup were delicious. To that I added stewed venison and polenta. Ruth ate with others but we had agreed to meet after lunch. That was not to be so I spent the afternoon by myself.

I again walked down those horrid stairs but instead of going right to the lake, I sauntered along the road past the souvenir shops. I was on my way to the castle so didn't want to lose any elevation if I could help it. The path to Bled Castle was off a road I had traveled that morning but the sign is almost an afterthought. A couple of steps cut into the bank beside the road alerted me to its existence.

My climbing instincts are good after hiking in the Rockies so when the trail broke into multiple versions of well-trod paths, I chose the ones that allowed me to switch-back up the cliff. It was so nice being in the peace of the woods. I was very much alone but had no fear of bears or cougars which would have plagued me in Canada.

Towards the top were, you guessed it, more stairs. These were of old stone and I wondered how long they had etched the hillside. They switch-backed up the steep grade until light appeared to split the trees. Huffing and puffing, I came to stand beside a parking lot. I had no idea a road led to the place.

The castle's entrance fee of 7 euros ($9.50) was steep but the view was so worth it. Besides two outdoor cafés, there was a tiny museum to explore outlining the history of the castle. It was first mentioned in 1004 when the German Emperor Henrick II gave the Bled estate to Bishop Albuin of Brixen. The castle itself, at that time consisting of its Romanesque tower, went to the bishop's successor. It is the oldest castle in Slovenja and was expanded during the Middle and Baroque Ages. Gracing the upper courtyard is a chapel built in the 16th century but decorated with frescoes in the 1700s.

The castle also has a herbal collection and wine cellar. George had bought some wine the previous day and could bottle it himself. The castle hosts weddings and the wine bottling is part of celebrating the special event.

But, I was not there to learn about the history of the castle or bottle wine, I was there to photograph Bled Lake, Bled Island, and the surrounding Julian Alps. Tanis joined me on the stone courtyard having seen all the conference's posters she needed to see. She is also a keen photographer and has a good eye for what makes a good photograph. Fifty shots later, I was ready to leave the 130m cliff and descend down the stairs to the lake. There I met Ruth and Tom (also taking a break from the meeting).

Glen was in the room doing his email when I hauled myself up the stairs to the hotel. He decided he'd only attend one afternoon session as the rest dealt with veterinary C. difficile. Ruth knocked on our door and we headed down the stairs for a beer in Pub Bled. In the back of my mind, I knew I'd have to ascend them to eat supper.

The buffet was excellent and I enjoyed trout served with a garlic sauce and garnished with horseradish. Somehow, it worked. Afterwards we joined Tanis, George, and some scientists from Britain and went back down to the pub. My legs were screaming, why?, but I ignored them. After a couple of Slovenian beers, we trudged back up to our room. I slept without rocking.